In an era where couture often feels more like an indulgence than a statement, Ronald van der Kemp’s The Call of the Wild reminds us that fashion can still be a force for change. Debuted during Paris Couture Week, this isn’t just a collection — it’s an environmental manifesto draped in brocade, lace, and upcycled scraps.

The Dutch couturier, known for his anti-establishment design ethics and slow fashion stance, didn’t just flirt with the theme of nature—he immersed in it. Drawing inspiration from the Amazon rainforest, this Wardrobe 22 collection is both an homage to wild beauty and a warning about what’s at stake.

Key Highlights from The Call of the Wild by RVDK

• Reimagined foliage: Plissé fabrics mimicking palm leaves
• Cultural collaboration: Co-created with Brazilian artist Thayna Caiçara
• Upcycled drama: Coats made from scrap bags, techno-taffeta peplum jackets
• Sculptural storytelling: Insect wings, birds, and flight motifs
• Ethical elegance: 100% commitment to working with what exists

Couture With Roots

The first few looks deceive. Are those palm leaves? Not quite. What appears to be foliage is actually plissé fabric layered with hand-painted strokes, bonded textures, beading, and embroidery to mimic nature’s chaos — all crafted from deadstock.

One of the standout features of this collection is the collaboration with Brazilian artist Thayna Caiçara. Indigenous artisans in Brazil, many of them from Caiçara’s own community, handcrafted several elements using sustainable methods. Each piece holds cultural memory, labor, and resilience — a direct rebuttal to fast fashion’s erasure of origin and craft.

Wild Contrasts & Refined Ferocity

There’s nothing tame about this wild. Polka dots clash with houndstooth. Lace romances leather. Brocade flirts with striped techno-taffeta. From ’40s-inspired power shoulders to sculptural wings, Van der Kemp’s silhouettes are unapologetically dramatic but never caricature.

Even the accessories feel alive — sculptural birds, insect-like protrusions, and exploded forms that look mid-flight. Yet somehow, none of it veers into theatrical excess. It’s maximalism with meaning.

Scraps, Pockets, and Stories

A standout? The flurry coat built entirely from discarded fabric scraps sent by a friend in London — delivered in literal garbage bags. In Van der Kemp’s Amsterdam atelier, those “trash” fragments became high fashion. Another piece — a city jacket made of techno-taffeta — uses pouchy, exaggerated pockets to create a voluminous peplum. Every element surprises.

These aren’t just garments. They’re wearable eco-statements designed to disrupt fashion’s extractive model. According to Van der Kemp, “We only work with what exists.” It’s a hardline philosophy that has powered his studio for a decade — with no compromise on couture’s drama or desirability.

Fashion’s Not-So-Guilty Pleasure

At a time when doomscrolling headlines and climate anxiety dominate our feeds, Van der Kemp insists on a different kind of narrative: beauty as a medium for activism. As he puts it, “No one wants to hear another bad story — beauty is how we reach people under the skin.”

This collection proves that couture doesn’t have to harm the planet to be extraordinary. It can transform waste into wonder. It can channel rainforest roots into red carpet magic. And it can redefine luxury as something not just worn, but deeply felt.