What Is Gabardine?
So, what is gabardine? Gabardine is a firm, tightly woven fabric with a distinctive twill construction. It can be made from different fibers, including wool and cotton, and is prized for its durability, structured feel, and polished appearance.
You may already know it without realizing it. Gabardine has a particularly strong connection to outerwear and is closely associated with the classic trench coat. But there is more to this fabric than a good-looking raincoat.
What Does Gabardine Fabric Look Like?
That subtle texture comes from its twill weave. The fabric generally has a smooth, refined surface while maintaining enough body to hold a structured silhouette. Depending on its fiber composition and weight, gabardine can feel crisp and substantial or softer and more fluid.
This versatility makes it useful across everything from tailoring to trousers, skirts, dresses, uniforms, and outerwear.
What Is Gabardine Made Of?
Traditional and modern versions can use:
- Wool
- Cotton
- Polyester
- Rayon
- Blended fibers
The fiber changes the final character of the fabric. Wool gabardine can feel luxurious and structured, while cotton gabardine offers a lighter, more casual interpretation. So, when someone says "gabardine," they're describing the fabric construction and characteristics, rather than automatically identifying its fiber content.
History of Gabardine
Thomas Burberry developed modern gabardine in 1879 while searching for a lighter and more breathable alternative to the heavy waterproof materials commonly used for outerwear at the time. The tightly woven fabric helped transform rainwear, and Burberry patented gabardine in 1888.
That history explains why the fabric remains so strongly associated with British outerwear and the evolution of the trench coat.
Why Is Gabardine So Popular in Fashion?
Its tightly woven structure gives garments durability, while its twill surface adds visual texture without looking overly rugged.
Designers appreciate it because it can:
- Hold a sharp tailored shape
- Create clean, structured silhouettes
- Resist everyday wear
- Work well for outerwear
- Look polished enough for formal clothing
Is Gabardine Waterproof?
This is an important distinction. Gabardine's dense weave can provide some resistance to water, but not every gabardine fabric is waterproof.
Its water resistance depends on the fiber, weave density, finishing treatments, and garment construction.
Burberry's original gabardine was specifically developed to create lighter, more breathable weather-resistant clothing, which helped establish its reputation for protective outerwear.
So don't assume that every gabardine blazer or pair of trousers can handle a downpour.
Cotton Gabardine vs. Wool Gabardine
Both can look beautifully tailored, but they have different personalities.
Cotton Gabardine |
Wool Gabardine |
| Cotton gabardine generally feels lighter and more casual. | Wool gabardine tends to feel more refined and structured. |
| It works particularly well for trousers, jackets, skirts, utility-inspired pieces, and transitional outerwear. | Designers often use it for suits, tailored trousers, coats, and other polished pieces. |
What Can You Make With Gabardine?
- Trench coats
- Tailored trousers
- Blazers
- Suits
- Pencil skirts
- Uniforms
- Jackets
- Dresses
- Structured outerwear
Its ability to maintain shape makes it particularly useful when designers want a garment to look crisp rather than slouchy.
FAQs
Is gabardine a natural fabric?
Gabardine can be made from natural fibers such as wool or cotton, but it can also be made from synthetic or blended fibers. The term refers primarily to the fabric's tightly woven twill construction.
Is gabardine the same as cotton?
No. Cotton is a fiber, while gabardine describes a type of tightly woven fabric. Cotton can be used to make gabardine.
Is gabardine good for summer?
Lightweight cotton gabardine can work well in warmer weather. Heavier wool versions are generally better suited to cooler temperatures.
Does gabardine wrinkle easily?
Gabardine's firm structure generally helps it maintain a crisp appearance, although its wrinkle resistance depends on the fiber composition and finish.
Is gabardine good for trousers?
Yes. Its structure makes gabardine particularly well suited to tailored trousers, especially styles that need to maintain a clean silhouette.
From its origins in weather-resistant outerwear to its continued presence in tailoring and contemporary fashion, gabardine has earned its place as one of those fabrics that quietly refuses to become irrelevant.
